Huancavelica

After my trip to Huancavelica this week the idea of fair trade has developed a new solidity and meaning in my mind.  Huancavelica is the poorest region in Peru and home to four artisan groups with which Bridge of Hope works: Sumacc Ruraq, Tupac Yupanki, Huayanay, and El Mercurio.  After a nauseating bus ride that took us 11,000 feet above sea level, Imke, Maribel, and I arrived on a chilly morning in the city of Huancavelica.  I never felt queasy or sick but the altitude was definitely noticeable in every vaguely unsatisfying breath I took.

A street in Huancavelica

The city itself is small and really charming, and its history is evident from its many Spanish missionary churches, the quaint balconied buildings surrounding the Plaza de Armas, and the language (Quechua) and clothing of people walking through the streets. I think the most striking show of Huancavelica’s history and culture is the women.  Most of them, especially the older women, wore thick leggings underneath several layers of skirts, alpaca and wool sweaters, and manta blankets tied around their shoulders that generally held either babies or bread.  Imke and I were clearly out of place and were often followed with stares and whispers of “Mira a las gringas!”  In fact, one ancient little woman passing us on the street happily pointed to me and loudly chanted, “Gringa gringa gringa gringa!” 

Driving to Yauli and seeing our first alpaca of the week

Our first task of the trip was to meet with the group Sumacc Ruraq in the little town of Yauli that was a half hour’s drive away.  The road to Yauli follows a river several hundred feet below in a deep canyon and was an incredible, breath-taking sight for Imke and me.  Once we reached the tiny plaza of Yauli we walked down a street and crossed a creek to reach the complex of homes where the members of Sumacc Ruraq lived and worked.  Most of the artisans were at a workshop in another town when we arrived but we met with Lorenzo Taype, son of the leader of the group, and Benita Pavear.  We showed them videos and pictures of a design that a new client had asked for and talked with them about new products they have designed.  When I was listening to Benita and Lorenzo toss ideas and observations about the new designs back and forth I was doubting my Spanish skills because I couldn’t understand anything they were saying—but then I realized they were speaking Quechua!  Even though I couldn’t talk much with Benita it was wonderful to watch her knit and carefully sort through the beautiful products that she and the other women had designed and created.

Benita sorting through colorful necklaces

After a quick trip back to Huancavelica for an exciting lunch (the server spilled soup on Maribel’s only pair of pants) we made the drive to Yauli once more and headed up the hills above it to meet with Tupac Yupanki.  The families of Tupac Yupanki raise animals as well as knit and they live in the middle of steep fields.  Most of the women were at a meeting when we arrived so we waited with the wife of the leader of the group until they were finished.  This woman spoke only Quechua and for all intents and purposes we could not communicate with her.  When the other women arrived, each of them toting a baby on their back, they showed us their new designs and gave us the prices for each.  The wonderful thing about fair trade that many people don’t realize is the power and confidence that producers have when they can evaluate their own businesses, name their own prices, and innovate their own designs.  One can easily be fooled by the humble homes and lack of education of many of the artisans and say, “This isn’t helping at all! There’s no difference here.”  But we can’t underestimate the huge effects and enormous power of the less noticeable changes wrought in the artisans’ lives by fair trade.

The women of Tupac Yupanki

When Maribel asked the women if their lives had improved since working with Bridge of Hope they all said yes without hesitation.  When she asked if their homes were better and more comfortable they said yes again.  Perhaps the most emphatic yes was when Maribel asked if their husbands liked that they brought in an income often bigger than theirs.  I could see, then, how fair trade was affecting fundamental cultural ideas; having their own business gives these women confidence and is ultimately going to change the way their daughters’ think about themselves and the way their sons’ view women.  Fair trade slowly but effectively moves communities toward equality and sustainability, but more than this it inspires very real and meaningful hope in the opportunities of the future.  I gotta say, I’m sold.

After many cheek kisses goodbye we began trudging down the road to Yauli, hoping a taxi would come by and pick us up (which it finally did).  After dark we made it back to Huancavelica and walked through crowds of people gathered in the square to watch Peru play in the Copa Americana on a big screen.  Our hotel was freezing so I snuggled in my sleeping bag and was out immediately—less than two hours of sleep on a bus ride doesn’t really prepare you for a day in the Andean countryside. 

Two members of Huayanay looking over their products

Driving to see Huayanay

The next morning we sat in the square to wait for our ride up to visit grupo Huayanay.  The hour and a half drive up into the mountains took us past huge hillsides, deep valleys, and countless alpaca, sheep, and llamas.  Imke and I gave up trying not to look like typical gringos and snapped photos left and right.  Between the two of us there must be several hundred landscape photos (and probably just as many llama pics too).   Grupo Huayanay lives in a small community in the middle of hilly farmland nearly 15,000 feet above sea level.  They are mostly men, which makes this group unique, and they weave beautiful scarves, shawls, blankets, and bedspreads.  Leoncio, the leader, gave us an interview with some trepidation (since we were pointing a camera at him) and told us his story of learning to weave in Huancayo but never being able to make enough money until he met “Señorita Ruth,” who began the fair trade project with La Red Uniendo Manos, and gained access to the fair trade market and formed a group that created new products and designs.  He told us how special it was to have a steady income from the weaving because otherwise he and the other men in the group would be forced to leave their homes everyday, maybe for days at a time, to try to find short-term labor work.  He said he was thankful to be able to stay with his family.  Huayanay was an incredible and welcoming group of people who eloquently described to us the benefits they have experienced since working with Bridge of Hope and I was thankful to meet with them and hear their own stories.

As a side note, they had a pen of guinea pigs in their kitchen which I thought was awesome and Imke thought was horrifying (hint: they weren't pets). 

The women of Mercurio knitting together

Back in Huancavelica that afternoon we hiked up the steep stairs that lead to the homes on the edge of the city where Grupo Mercurio lives and works.  The city is set in a bowl-like valley and the outskirts of the city swoosh up the bottoms of the mountains.  The women of El Mercurio were gathered in a small room lined with benches and were rapidly speaking Spanish and Quechua and knitting toys out of colorful cotton yarn.   This group of women is from Santa Barbara, the location of the famous and centuries-old Spanish mercury mine.  They fled to the outskirts of Huancavelica during the violence and terrorism in the 80’s and 90’s, and Maribel hinted to me that many of these women were themselves hurt and violated during that period.  I think perhaps their story is most indicative of the positive changes brought about by fair trade.  Once these women left their homes they eked out a living washing clothes in the river or cleaning for families but couldn’t support their families that way and couldn’t return to Santa Barbara because the community was so badly torn apart.  They formed a group and began making unique sets of finger puppets and slowly their incomes grew.  When we sat and talked with them while they knit they laughed and chattered and their bond was very evident.  Mercurio is obviously not just a means of earning an income but a group of friends who support one another as well.  This particular week had been stressful for them because they had been dealing with strikes and protests in Huancavelica because people were demanding another university.  Protests were scheduled to begin again the next morning and since the women had described bombs, riots, and police coming in on helicopters I was glad we were leaving before then. 

I have finally seen the raw beginnings of the fair trade process, the creation of the products that Bridge of Hope offers, and the process of distributing those products to the world, thus allowing the artisans to earn the income they deserve and to control the business in which they work.  More than that I had a rare opportunity to see part of Peru that still rings with the authentic and often horrifying history of Peru and its various stages of peace and turmoil.  

Soon I'll be posting videos of the artisans telling us about what they do and how they feel about fair trade, and there are more pictures up on my facebook of the whole trip, and more pics will be up on the Bridge of Hope facebook page too.
Thank you for reading, and hasta luego!

Sunny in Lima!

The world has brightened a little bit down here in the desert-with-no-sun!  Sunshine peaked through gloom this week making everything seem more positive and beautiful. Just to update you all, I'm leaving tomorrow for Huancavelica, a region in the Andes and the poorest region of Peru.  I met an artisan from one of the groups there when she came to Lima with her father to bring her newborn baby to the hospital here--the baby was born with a tumor on the back of his head that was causing his head to swell somehow.  They're both fine now and have returned to Huancavelica, where we'll meet up with them.  The woman was very difficult to understand because she mostly speaks Quechua, and her father (the leader of the group) only knows rudimentary Spanish.
In other news, I SAW HARRY POTTER! Natalíe and I went to Cine San Miguel to watch it (it was her second time, she's a huge fan of all things fantasy) and it was truly awesome. Go see it, all of you.

Here are some pics for your viewing pleasure:

I walk past this church every morning on my way to the office.

The door to the house where I'm living!

My street

Roberto--the precocious kid of one of the artisans

Imke and I love our llamas!

Hasta luego, amigos!

One week at Bridge of Hope down!

This week at Bridge of Hope was unusually hectic because Maribel, Jed, and a couple of artisans are visiting the U.S. for a couple of weeks.  Imke and Jenny met their match with the bureaucracy of Peruvian customs and shipping while I looked helplessly on.  I can't exactly sum up what my job with BOH is yet because I don't precisely know, but I'm sure that once I figure it out it will be awesome.
Wednesday was Dia del Pescador, or fisherman's day, which is a work-free holiday for many Peruvians.  Imke and I spent our Dia del Pescador visiting Museo Larco which, besides being one block away from my house, has one of the largest collections of pre-Columbian art as well as an erotic pottery exhibit.  Come find me if you want to see pictures of that when I get back because I definitely won't be posting them on my blog.  The museum itself is an old mansion built on top of 7th century ruins and boasts a magnificent garden that spills over the walls to the street.  As we navigated the exhibits we saw tons of pre-Jesus pottery and textiles that were so well preserved they may as well have been bought yesterday in Lima at the Mercado del Indio.

One of the most interesting items was a quipu, which is a series of strings that are knotted and colored in particular ways to store information about economic output, census, business transactions, etc.  In fact, Imke and I saw the very same quipu that's featured on the quipu wikipedia page! Check it!  The other impressive part of the exhibit was the staggering amount of gold ornaments worn by Incan nobility: earrings, nose rings, necklaces, head pieces, and breastplates.

These are old timey ear plugs. Hipsters, eat your hearts out. 

Once we stopped gawking at the impressive collection of "erotic ceramics" we left the exhibit, snuck through the museum's tourist-priced restaurant, and headed down Bolivar to grab a great lunch at a cheap little restaurant in Jesús María.  Here's something I love about Lima: Imke helped me buy a cheap phone from a Metro (supermarket) and I remembered I needed some nail clippers so we headed back to the pharmacy section. The only ones they had in the store were 28 soles! That's like ten dollars! So I gave up my search and resigned myself to remaining nailclipperless, but not even a block away from the Metro I spotted a tiny little man selling random trinkets on the side of the street and lo and behold, he had an array of novelty nailclippers for one sol!  No matter where you are in Lima, someone on the street is always selling what you need, whether that be picarones, sewing needles, bibles, or nailclippers.

Yesterday Imke and I broke down and went to Miraflores to grab some good ol' American pizza. We felt like exploring so we stopped by a little shop and bought "chocotejas," which are awesome little chocolates filled with some kind of dulce de leche. Then we headed down the main street to Larco Mar, a shopping mall built into the cliffs that overlook the sea.  It wasn't so much a mall as a glorified food court and refuge for tourists because it was the most opulent, clean, nice place I had seen in Peru thus far.  It had a North Face store, PacSun, toy stores, shoe stores, souvenir shops, and even a Dunkin' Donuts.

The view from Larco Mar

I live in the blue house on the right!

Lima is sometimes shocking because unbelievable wealth often sits right next to undeniable poverty.  This week I went with Jenny in a taxi to drop off some materials at a bus station in the center of Lima.  On my last trip to the center of Lima I saw the presidential palace; on this trip, however, I saw people trying to sell shoes and lamps they found in the garbage or drunkenly trying to cross the street or begging at each car that passed.  My mom told me that Peru will experience a 6% growth in its GDP this year, but from what I have seen and heard from folks at the office, that economic growth will go unnoticed by almost all Peruvians except the hombres at the top. In a few weeks, though, I'll go to places like La Oroya and Huancavelica and see firsthand the poverty that resulted from the corruption and terrorism in Peru's recent history, which is what groups like Bridge of Hope are trying to change.
Happy 4th of July weekend, everyone!  Enjoy some burgers n hotdogs for me!

Getting lost, ruins, good food, and cuy!

I have so many adventures to tell! To catch you all up: I'm living with a family in the Pueblo Libre district of Lima, Germán y Susana Vargas and their daughters Claudia and Natalíe. They are wonderful people but I've run into some issues with communication because they have slight accents, speak very quickly, and don't use small words.  Despite that, they are fabulous and have a gorgeous home. Anyway, this morning Susana took me on a bus to a safe ATM where I could get the money to pay the family and avoid carrying it around the city all day.  After taking out the money she put me on the bus to the office where I work.  The paradero--bus stop--is on Javier Prado, next to a big green pedestrian bridge. I got off at the right spot (and I'm rather proud of that) but couldn't remember the street where I worked.  The busy intersection, overwhelming number of landmarks, and constant noise was completely disorienting and after twenty minutes and several (expensive and panicked) calls to my mom I still hadn't found the street.  The address for the office is "Jr. Daniel Alcides Carrión" and all I could find was a street sign that said "Jr. Carrión" so I asked a policeman to point me in the right direction (policemen are everywhere and guard every pharmacy), but instead he decided he and his buddy on a motorcycle should parade me down the street to the office.  So the Peruvians on Jr. Carrión got to see a rare sight today: a gringo being escorted by police through a neighborhood. Ugh.
Backtracking, because so much has happened: On Friday I lived like a Peruvian when I went to dinner with Maribel, Jenny, Jed, and Imke at a truly Peruvian restaurant.  I tried pisco sour, which as I understood it is made during the wine-making process and is Peru's signature drink.
The next day I explored the city with Sofietje and Marco, a married couple from Australia and Italy, respectively, who are traveling South America for their year-long honeymoon.  Clearly they are some exceedingly cool and interesting people.  Last Saturday we ate mind-blowing Lebanese food, drank delicious coffee, and visited some rockin' pre-Incan ruins.  The ruins, Huanca Pucllana, stretched out over several acres and stood quite high.  Our guide showed us the holes where bodies were interred and the plazas where celebrations and religious festivals took place.  A small garden of Peruvian plants (like coca) domesticated by these pre-Columbian people surrounded a menagerie of llamas, alpacas, and cuy (guinea pigs!).  The first of the pictures on this page is of the layout of the ruins, which is impressive considering that much of the original site has been lost to time and urban development.  The second is a view from the top of the ruins with Sofietje, Marco, and our guide included. I threw in llama and guinea pig pics for fun!

This week I began working at Bridge of Hope and I haven't been able to do a whole lot because it's been a crazy week for them, but I love everyone at the office.  They are dedicated, passionate, yet pragmatic people who have made me feel very welcome. Maribel is visiting the St. Louis offices of Partners for Just Trade this week, but when she returns she, Imke, and I will go to La Oroya, Huanaco, and Huancavelica in the Andes to visit artisans.

That's it for now! I'll write more once something else interesting happens. Ciao!

Un poco observaciones sobre Lima y la gente acá...

Lima is very much like New York City with a third-world hispanic twist:  dirty, loud, stark contrasts of rich and poor, but undeniably wonderful and fascinating.  Relative to the country as a whole, Lima is doing quite well for itself, but relative to the United States or Australia (there are Australians all over this continent) it is much poorer than I expected.  A meal here in an upscale restaurant like Tanta (which is one of many restaurants owned by Gaston Acurio, Peru's most famous chef) is between 20 and 30 soles, which is 6 to 10 dollars.  Most of the cars are at least ten years old and I have yet to see a 2010 model.  Apparently this is because the city heavily taxes new cars. Moreover, the police are corrupt and it is extremely common to be pulled over by the police and forced to pay a bribe of 10 or 20 soles.  It's so common that it's almost like a tax just for driving.  Walking around the city carries many risks in the form of anxious taxi drivers who are unwilling to slow down, men sitting in trees and hacking at the branches with machetes above walkways, or hazardous construction sites.  Do not walk underneath construction sites; in place of cranes they use buckets on pulleys to hoist up 2x4's.

Yesterday Johnny Trillo drove me to the center of Lima to see the cathedrals, old buildings, and the presidential palace.  Historically this area was the center of the colonial power in Lima.  Johnny described the old Spanish rulers as "la gente de plata"--literally, silver people.  Wooden balconies jut out from windows above the skinny streets which are crawling with taxis and pedestrians.  We walked through a huge plaza that was surrounded on one side by the presidential palace (very grand and lovely), on the other by a tall cathedral, and on the others by the homes of nobility which are now just used for offices and small tiendas.  Around the corner from the palace is San Francisco cathedral, where tourists can walk down to catacombs and see the piles of bones of the later waves of Spanish conquistadors.  A street away and a level below that are some stone Inca ruins.  So far this is my favorite section of Lima and will certainly be explored further.

Point of interest: Lima may be the only international city where Peruvian flute bands don't flood the streets in obnoxious droves. I have yet to see a genuine alpaca poncho, let alone a pan flute. 

Another interesting fact: I am at this moment chugging a bottle of Inca Kola, the most popular national drink.  It's a fluorescent yellow soda that tastes like bubblegum and it's owned by CocaCola, go figure.  On a similar note I found out from Denny, my Australian classmate, that an American company bought out Vegemite.  I apologized on behalf of my ridiculous country, and wondered why America would want to own Vegemite anyways...

Hasta luego, amigos! Ciao!

Figuring out Lima

I don't think I can adequately recount the last twenty-four hours in one post, but I'll do my best to sum up! Traveling yesterday went smoothly but was exhausting. On the planes I had some great conversations with several interesting people, three of whom were traveling to Peru for various humanitarian work.  Around 8:30 local time we landed in Lima, and about an hour and a half later I had my baggage and was out the door, where I met Johnny Trillo, my driver, who has turned out to be the handiest person in Lima.  La casa where I am staying with several other foreigners is owned by a rather old guy named Orlando, who is unfailingly kind and helpful. My room is perfecto--small bed, desk, chairs, and a tv that doesn't work but I wouldn't watch anyway.  Most importantly there is wifi here so I can skype with everyone!
This morning I began the language school at Hispana Idiomas, only six or seven blocks away from la casa. My teacher is a ridiculously nice Peruvian woman, who is thankfully patient enough to deal with our blundering attempts at conversation in Spanish.  Actually, my classmates speak quite well--one is a recent college graduate from New Jersey and the other is an Australian electrician who has apparently been all around the world.  The school itself is a tiny two-story house in Miraflores (the affluent district of Lima).  After class it was lunch time.  If you are planning to travel to Lima, you will be pleased to know that everything is dirt cheap--I ate sizable portions of soup, salad, chicken, rice, and french fries for ten soles, which is just over three bucks.  After lunch I attempted to walk back to the house and got myself so very lost that I ended up back at the language school, where I ran into Johnny Trillo and got a ride home.  Later, Señor Trillo drove me to see the beach.  Miraflores, the section of Lima that runs along the coastline, is actually several hundred feet above the beach on a long line of cliffs.
The city itself seems more like NYC than any other international city I have visited, which is surprising.  One key difference, however, is the people, who are invariably kind and supportive.  Everyone seems very conscious of the rampant poverty in Peru and sympathetic towards that impoverished population, much more so than in any other city I have seen, including Maryville. Very encouraging, considering the work I will be doing next week.
That's it for now, so I shall say buenas noches y hasta luego! Check back soon for pics!

Mañana!

Only a few more hours until I take off for Peru! Well, first for Newark...but then Peru! My stomach is filled with butterflies but I'm feeling more excited than nervous now that it's so close.  I can't wait to get through the language school (just to freshen up mi español) and start working with Bridge of Hope.  I don't have anything interesting to say yet because I'm still in the US but expect an update once the real trip begins. Hasta luego!